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Enjoy
a Cold One in the Cold
Top
10 Winter Beers
by Marnie Old
Beer
is associated more with cooling off than warming up,
thanks to the supply of mass-market lagers. Images
of beaches and bikinis and slogans like "Drink
ice cold"
emphasize beer's role as frosty refreshment. Calling
for a "cold one" leaves few Americans in doubt
as to what beverage is desired. But what do we do when
the weather turns frosty, when we're already cold enough?
Warm up with a "strong one" of course—a
hearty winter brew.
Alcoholic
beverages give an instant warming sensation, like the
feeling of sunshine on your skin, but spreading from
the inside. Brewing has historically been a specialty
of regions where winters are harsh and grains are grown,
like Germany and the British Isles. For centuries, brewers
have made seasonal beers for winter that are fuller in
body and maltier than standard styles. Some are festively
spiced, others are simply turbocharged versions of year-round
recipes. But all feature that extra richness of texture
that comes with heaping helpings of barley malt. Winter
warmers have less water in the mix, delivering more nutrition
and higher alcohol content than typical summer quenchers.
To best banish winter’s chill, serve
these beers no colder than 50 degrees Fahrenheit, which
is also ideal for showcasing their delicious flavors.
Serving “ice cold” suppresses
flavor; a good strategy only if you’re not keen to
really "taste" your beer.

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Great
Divide "Hibernation Ale"
___________________________
American Strong Ale - Colorado / Seasonal
$2.50 / 12 oz.
8.1% ABV
This
malty monster is Denver's Christmas gift
to beer lovers everywhere, an epic winter seasonal
brew from Great Divide Brewing Company. In
the glass, Hibernation glows reddish-brown and
sports a head as thick and fluffy as shearling
slippers. Liberal helpings of caramel
malt make this full-bodied ale as slick in the
mouth as hot buttered rum. Malt aromas
of milk chocolate and peanut brittle compete
with a minty edge of herbal hops to saturate
the senses. If you've been good
boys and girls and find some Hibernation Ale
in your stocking this year, take a hint from
the name and set it aside. While it's
a tasty treat now, a year's worth of aging (in
a cool, dark place) will do this beer a world
of good. |
Sierra
Nevada "Celebration Ale"
___________________________
American IPA - California / Seasonal
$1.50 / 12 oz.
6.8% ABV
Sierra
Nevada makes the country's top-selling pale ale,
and has almost single-handedly sold a generation
on ale over lager. Many other brewers put out a
turbocharged version of their pale ale year round,
often called India Pale Ale or IPA. However, Sierra
Nevada dances to its own tune, waiting for the
cold weather before bringing out the big gun and
labeling it a Winter Ale. "Celebration Ale"
has been long revered as an icon of American micro-brewing.
Though it can seem downright understated next to
its hyper-hopped competition, raw power hums under
the hood. Hearty, grainy malt balances dulce de leche decadence,
while sappy, sticky Cascade hop aromas leap from the
glass. Brewed annually for more than fifteen years,
this brew shows the merits of patience and experience. |
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|
Samuel
Adams "Winter Lager"
___________________________
Spiced Lager or Weizenbock - Massachusetts / Seasonal
$1.25 / 12 oz.
5.8% ABV
Lager
drinkers will barely recognize this sprightly
seasonal as a member of the clan, though it delivers
characteristic lager refreshment. Samuel Adams
"Winter Lager"
is highly unusual—a brown, spiced wheat lager.
While it may not embrace tradition, the innovative
recipe is oddly apt for celebrating the season.
Muscular, yet lithe, this beer is highly carbonated
and judiciously spiced, triggering subconscious
cravings for gingerbread men and egg nog. Walnutty
malt flavors are accented with subtle notes of
cinnamon and orange peel as ephemeral as ghosts
of Christmases past. Very much the exception to
the "winter beer" rule, few seasonal
brews fit as seamlessly into the beer drinker's
routine as this inspired Boston brew. |
| Hair
of the Dog "Doggie Claws"
___________________________
American
Barleywine -
Oregon / Seasonal
$5.00 / 12 oz.
11.5% ABV
Hair
of the Dog is known for ales in the boldly-hopped
West Coast style, and their holiday-themed Doggie
Claws is no exception. This beefy barleywine
is paler than most, a rich burnt orange, but scored
high marks for flavor intensity. Practically
bursting with golden fruit aromas, Doggie Claws smells
like ginger marmalade and pineapple upside-down cake.
Layers of green piney hops add to the beer's
complexity, as well as notes of yeasty bread-pudding.
Surprisingly dry for such a strong beer, Doggie Claws
is nonetheless a better candidate for snifter sipping
in front of the fire than pint draining at happy
hour. (A considerable presence of yeast sediment
argues in favor of allowing this beer to stand
undisturbed for a day before careful pouring.)
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Victory
"Storm King"
___________________________
Imperial Stout - Pennsylvania / All-Year
$5 / 22 oz.
10% ABV
Stouts
are black ales that take their distinctive coffee-like
flavors from blackened barley malt. The most popular—dry Irish stouts like Guinness—are on a par with
"light" beers in alcohol. However, Imperial
Stouts are the pinnacle of the black beer family;
strong, rich and densely malty. They take their
name from historic popularity with the Russian
czars and their court. Thanks to this style, "imperial"
has entered the beer lexicon, implying boosted
concentration, strength and sweetness. As black
as espresso with a creamy café-au-lait-colored head, Victory's
Imperial Stout is an American benchmark of the style.
Easier to drain than its alcohol content would suggest,
each sip manages to satisfy and pique the appetite
at once. Decadent mocha and molasses flavors dominate,
while playful fruit notes emerge in the finish, reminiscent
of brandied cherries or cassis liqueur. "Storm King"
is a noble choice for sipping after dinner, alone
or accompanied by Roquefort cheese or a flourless
chocolate cake. |
| Corsendonk
"Christmas Ale"
___________________________
Strong Dark Abbey-style Ale - Belgium / Seasonal
$9 / 24 oz.
8.5% ABV
A
handful of Belgian Trappist monasteries have preserved
a medieval approach of brewing into the modern
day, and have inspired brewers of "Abbey-Style"
ales in Belgium and
beyond. Corsendonk is a classic
example, and their seasonal Christmas Ale is a divine
inspiration, one of the finest winter ales of all
time. Rich and dark-hued, this well-crafted
beer is potent, but still eminently drinkable on
a chilly mid-winter night. As it pours, heady
aromas of dessert spices emerge with graceful notes
of floral hops, star anise and coriander. Beers
like this are heaven-sent, or as Benjamin Franklin
put it, "proof that God loves us and wants
us to be happy." |

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Liefman's
"Glühkriek"
___________________________
Spiced Cherry Flemish Oud Bruin - Belgium / Seasonal
$10 / 12 oz.
6.5%
ABV
Glühkriek
sounds a little funny in English, but it tastes
sublime. "Glühwein" is the
German word for mulled wine, literally "glow
wine" for the way hot, spiced wine makes you
feel. "Kriek" is Flemish for cherry, and a
famous Belgian style of cherry beer. So Glühkriek
is a spiced sweet-tart cherry beer designed to be
served warmed in winter, like a latter-day wassail. This
rare Belgian beer is undeniably quirky; in fact,
few would recognize this explosively aromatic cherry
bomb as beer on first sip. But it is undeniably
delicious and tailor-made for banishing the chill
of a solstice night. If there's a beer
connoisseur on your holiday gift list, or a wine
drinker who needs a taste of what beer can do, a
tissue-wrapped bottle of Liefman's Glühkriek
is sure to surprise and delight. |
| Unibroue
"La Fin du Monde"
___________________________
Abbey-style Tripel - Quebec / All-Year
$3 / 16 oz.
9% ABV
Unibroue,
from Québec, comes remarkably close to the
depth and complexity of Belgian Trappist brews, and
features a far wider range of styles. While all are
world-class, none have been as influential as “La
Fin du Monde,” or “The End of the World.”
Generally classified as an “Abbey-style Tripel,”
this strong golden ale combines silky soft texture
with a fierce backbone of hops. Pungent white pepper
and coriander aromas rise from the fluffy cap of foam.
Sweet malt and dried peach flavors are balanced by
a savory component worthy of a perfectly aged gouda
cheese. All are reigned in and knit together by a
spicy, floral hop presence and lingering bitterness
that scour the palate clean. Yum. |
 |

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Sam
Smith's
"Winter Welcome"
___________________________
Winter Warmer Ale - England / Seasonal
$3 / 18.7 oz.
6%
ABV
The
Yorkshire ales of Samuel Smith are legendary,
combining reverence for tradition with an uncommon
dedication to quality. This beer is brewed
in the Winter Warmer style; smooth, malty brews
that are a touch stronger, plumper, less bitter
and more caramel-scented than the typical British
pale ale. "Winter Welcome" is a tawny gold,
topped with a froth as white and fluffy as Santa's
beard. It delivers just enough richness
to soothe the wind-chapped senses, yet doesn't
push intensity so far as to limit the beer's
drinkability by the pint. Solidly malty,
"Winter Welcome" is very dry with a hearty, multi-grain
toast quality. Complex earthy aromas worthy
of artisanal cheese add depth, while mineral sharpness
and herbal hop twang scour the palate clean. This
winter beer is a study in restraint, an impeccably
balanced brew with class that needn't shout
to make its message heard. |
| Weihenstephaner
"Korbinian"
___________________________
Doppelbock Lager - Germany / All-Year
$3 / 16 oz.
7.4%
ABV
Germany
is a beer lover's heaven on earth, where
beer is rightly recognized as a food group and
brewing with anything short of pure barley malt
has been outlawed since 1516. While the popular
image of German beer is that of pale lager, the
tradition of brewing strong "bock" beers
for cold weather is robust and grows more popular
every year. This strong, dark lager boasts an ebony
hue, reflecting garnet red in bright light. Aromas
of pecan pie and hearty trail mix provide a mouth-watering
preview, while mocha and raisin flavors follow
up in the finish. Remarkably dry, “Korbinian”
is a rare breed among Doppelbocks, as appropriate
before or during dinner as after. |
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Check
out more great winter beers
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| P121106 |
(Updated
12/13/07 NJ) |
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