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Pink Values for Summer
Rosés in a League of Their Own
by Bryan Miller

Great Wines for Summer Brunch
Outdoor Dining Picks
Favorite Rosés
Summer Wine Selections by Sommeliers
Ideal Wines for the Sunny Days

For several decades, rosés have been the bush league ball players of the wine world enjoyed by some but not taken very seriously. This is all changing as quality rosé wines now come into the market from around the world. Most sell in the $7 to $12 range.

Quality rosés, not to be confused with sweet cloying white Zinfandel, are light, dry and refreshing – perfect for aperitifs, summer buffets and picnics.

Rosés are made by lightly crushing grapes; the types of grapes vary with regions and countries, and, instead of siphoning off the juice immediately to make a white wine, the skins are left in the vat for several hours to a day. The longer the wine sits, the darker it becomes. The flavor should be fruity but barely sweet, cleansing and pleasantly acidic, which makes for a clean finish.

While rosés traditionally are associated with Southern France and the Loire, there now are an increasing number of fine examples from Spain, Italy, California, even South Africa and South America. Recently I blind tasted and rated more than three dozen rosés, and the results were surprising.
Here are my ratings in order of preference (prices may vary):

 

 

• Marqués de Cáceres: Rosado—Rioja, Spain, 2003. Pale pink, dry, faint fruit flavor, lots of acid, terrific. $7.

• Señoria de Sarria: Viñedo #5—Navarra, Spain, 2003. Light ruby color, ample fruit, zesty, delicious. $10.

• Muga: Rosado—Rioja, Spain, 2003. Pale, light, mineral accents, refreshing, very dry. $12.

• Domaine Salvat: Rosé—Côtes du Roussillon, France, 2003. Medium color, nice fruit, lot of acid, well balanced. $11.

• Barton & Gustier: Rose d' Anjou—Loire, France, 2003. Light cherry color, fresh, mouth-filling, pleasant. $9.

• Julián Chivite: Rosado—Navarra, Spain, 2003. Deep red, fuller bodied, lots of acid. $8.

• Chateau de Trinquevedel: Tavel—Tavel, France, 2003. Dark salmon color, medium acid, subtle fruit. $10.

• Jean-Luc Colomb: Côte Bleue—Provence, France, 2003. Light salmon colored, medium body, good fruit, could use more zest, but lovely. $10.

• Château Penin: Rosé—Bordeaux, France, 2003. Decent fruit but a bit watery. $9.

• Charles Back: Goats do Roam Rose—Western Cape, South Africa, 2003. More full bodied than most; good fruit, medium finish. $8.99.

• Sinskey Vineyards: Vin Gris of Pinot Noir—Los Carneros, CA, 2003. Dry but ample fruit; lovely picnic wine. $12.

• Sanford Pinot Noir: Vin Gris—Santa Rita Hills, CA, 2003. Elegant, delicate, ripe fruit and full flavored. $14.

Former New York Times restaurant critic, food writer and cookbook author Bryan Miller (Cooking for Dummies, Desserts for Dummies), is a prominent authority in American gastronomic literature.
Thirsty for more? Read about Rosés that we've recently tasted!

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