  
                September 2008 
              
              September 29, 2008 
 
              
                
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                  MAKING WAVES 
                      Cielo Malibu Estate Wineyards 
                            2006 Malibu Rouge 
                              Saddle Rock-Malibu, CA 
                      The glamorous, sun-kissed beaches and hillsides of Malibu, California,  are best known for their celebrity residents, from Mel Gibson to Angelina Jolie  and Brad Pitt. But what most people don’t realize is that, in addition to  providing a private haven for the world’s biggest celebs, Malibu has provided a nurturing environment  for grapes since Catholic missionaries planted the region’s first vines  centuries ago. Among the handful of vintners making big business out of Malibu’s coastal growing  climate is Cielo. A relative newcomer, this blossoming boutique winery is  making some big waves on the Southern California  wine scene. Cielo’s five-acre hillside vineyard produces Syrah, Merlot,  Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, and its Malibu Rouge is a blend of all  four varietals. The wine is light in color and body for a blend of such big  grapes. However, the bright acidity—a distinctly Malibu characteristic—helps add structure and  a pleasing bite. Up front, there is cherry, ripe tomato and a hint of mesquite.  As it crosses the palate, the wine seems to grow in flavor and complexity, and  by the end, Rouge hits you with delicious blackberry, black currant, pepper and  clove. It is the right sort of red for the transition to autumn. Serve it with  pasta and the last of the summer’s tomatoes, or pair with a spiced fall stew. 
                    Rating: 13.5/20 
                        Price: $90 
                         
                        Other Red Blends we have   tasted 
                          Check out our guide to California  
                      For more information, visit www.cielofarms.com  | 
                 
               
               
              September 22, 2008 
               
              
                
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                  V IS FOR VIVID 
                          Bunnell Family Cellar 
                            2006 Vif 
                              Columbia Valley, WA 
                    Capping his winemaking career that includes stints at well-known  wineries such as Beringer Vineyards, Kendall-Jackson, and most recently, Chateau  Ste. Michelle, Ron Bunnell now makes wines with his wife, Susan,  their  children—Amelia and Alex—and Susan's mother, Paula. The Bunnell Family Cellar, located on a hillside at RiverAerie—the  family’s seven-acre farm along the banks of Washington’s  Yakima River—produces an assortment of  handcrafted Rhône varietals. Using Syrah, Mourvedre, Petite Sirah, Cinsault and Grenache grapes from local growers, the Bunnells make their wines in small,  open-top fermentors. Their 2006 Vif ("Vif" being a French word for lively and  vivid), is a proprietary blend of Rhône varietals, and is reminiscent of the Rhône Valley’s  country wines. The 2006 vintage was aged for eighteen months in American and  Hungarian barrels in the winery’s underground barrel cellar, with only 307  cases eventually being made. This red blend reveals cinnamon and clove on the  nose, and bright red fruit flavors on the palate with a long raspberry finish. 
                    Rating: 14.5/20 
                        Price: $34 
                         
                        Other Red Blends we have   tasted 
                          Check out our guide to Washington  
                          For more information, visit www.bunnellfamilycellar.com  | 
                 
               
               
              September 15, 2008 
              
                
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                  BAY STATE BUBBLY  
                          Westport Rivers 
                            2003 Brut Cuvee RJR 
                              Massachusetts 
                    Although Westport Rivers specializes in New England  sparkling wine, the winery, a family-owned operation founded in 1982, has also found  success with Massachusetts-grown Riesling, Pinot Blanc and award-winning  Chardonnay. Westport River’s owners, the Russell family, also operate Buzzards  Bay Brewing and own over 300 acres of farmland. Their mission, beyond creating  world-class wines and beers, is to preserve and educate the local community so  that Southern Massachusetts’ residents will be able to eat locally and eat well  for generations to come. This bubbly from the Bay State is a little outside the norm  of our Wine of the Week, but it is also way outside the norm of American  sparkling wines. Its whopping case production of 3,800 is nearly double that of the wines we typically feature. However, its production and  distribution are limited enough to make it one of those special little finds  worth seeking. A blend of 63 percent Pinot Noir and 37 percent Chardonnay,  Cuvee RJR is a fine expression of the quality of New   England fruit. It is the wine Westport Rivers credits with putting  their winery “on the map,” and to the rest of the U.S., it is an emblem of the  sophistication to which East Coast winemaking has risen. A thick mousse, bright  fruit, lively acidity and a mere hint of toast make RJR the sort of wine you  don’t want to put down. It is crisp enough to awaken the palate at brunch, a  smart choice as a palate cleanser, yet big enough to serve with dinner or a  late-night plate of cheese. And with a price point under $30, RJR is a wine you  can afford to serve at any and all occasions. 
                    Rating: 13.5/20 
                        Price: $30 
                         
                        Other Sparkling Wines & Champagnes we
                          have tasted 
                          Check out our guide to Massachusetts  
                      For more information, visit www.westportrivers.com  | 
                 
               
               
              September 8, 2008 
              
                
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                  EXPENSIVE, BUT WORTH IT  
                          Pine Ridge Vineyards 
                          2005 Fortis 
                            Napa Valley, CA 
                    The year 1983 marked two major milestones for Stacy Clark.  The vivacious blonde graduated from U.C. Davis with a degree in Fermentation  Science, and took a job as enologist at Pine Ridge Vineyards in Napa Valley.  She had no idea that she would be still be working there twenty-five years  later, the last twenty as the winemaker. She is celebrating both anniversaries  by releasing her 2005 Fortis, which means wine lovers around the world get to  join the party and toast her longevity with her delightful creation. This is the third year Clark  has made this ultra-reserve Cabernet, and it appears that the third time is  indeed the charm. Although last year’s blend did not have enough of the  particular varietal to qualify as a Cabernet, this vintage is 83 percent Cab, 9  percent Merlot, 4 percent Petit Verdot, and 4 percent Malbec. While the Pine  Ridge winery is located in the Stag’s Leap District, their holdings incorporate  a number of other Napa Valley AVAs. This allows Clark to pick and choose the  estate fruit (which is hand-harvested at night) from their best blocks in Oakville, Rutherford, and  Carneros to get the optimal ingredients for her “tête de cuvée.” The wine was  aged in French oak barrels for 18 months, and 2,200 cases were bottled in March  of 2008. After a complex nose that includes toffee and pomegranate, the first  taste reveals how well-balanced, structured, round and smooth this wine truly  is. The creamy texture helps the tannins to blend in as opposed to leap out  from the glass, and leaves us wanting more. Enjoy it with grilled lamb, hard  cheese, or savor it by itself. If you can, try to keep another bottle around to  toast Clark’s thirtieth anniversary at Pine  Ridge, but that is no easy task. 
                    Rating: 16/20 
                        Price: $140 
                         
                        Other Cabernet Sauvignons we
                          have tasted 
                          Check out our guide to Napa Valley  
                      For more information, visit www.pineridgewinery.com  | 
                 
               
               
              September 1, 2008 
              
                
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                  A CULT DOWN UNDER  
                      Groom 
                      2006 Shiraz 
Barossa Valley, Australia 
                    In  a region like the Barossa Valley, competition among Shiraz producers is stiff.  But Groom Wines’ latest release is definitely a standout, even among names like  Elderton and Grant Burge. While the winery is a relative newcomer, owner Daryl  Groom is no stranger to Barossa   Valley fruit. Groom was  the chief red wine maker for Penfolds from 1984 to 1990,  meaning he was the  man who made the world’s most highly touted Shiraz: Grange. Groom moved to the  United States in 1990 to work with Peak Wines—the owners of Geyser Peak among  other wineries. Today, he continues to work with Peak as Vice President of Winemaking  and Operations in addition to running his namesake boutique  winery.  Groom and his wife Lisa plan on  producing wines from both American and Australian fruit, but for now offer a  Barossa Zinfandel, an Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc and the aforementioned  Barossa Valley Shiraz. With its beautiful structure and minute case production,  Groom’s 2006 Shiraz could become Australia’s  next cult wine. A nose of black cherry, currant and cocoa precedes a  fruit-dominated palate with dusty tannins and pleasantly biting acid.  Underlying masculine notes of leather and anise add complexity. Groom’s is an  extremely restrained Shiraz by Australian standards, allowing the region’s  sunlight and soil to shine rather than relying on the winemaker’s imprint. In  the glass, it is positively the essence of Barossa terroir and pairs well with  the region’s German immigrant cuisine of smoked meats and schnitzel. 
                    Rating: 16/20 
                        Price: $38 
                         
                        Other Syrah/Shiraz we
                          have tasted 
                          Check out our guide to Australia  
                    For more information, visit www.groomwines.com  | 
                 
               
               
              
                
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              Read 
              about the wine world's most influential critic: Robert 
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