THE
ACCIDENTAL CONNOISSEUR
An Irreverent Journey Through the Wine World
By Lawrence Osborne
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Lawrence
Osborne's irreverent galumph through the world of wine is
laugh-out-loud funny. In fact, we were tempted to dub him
the David Sedaris of wine writing. Now that's a pretty serious
compliment. What makes this book so compelling? Even though
author Osborne grew up in Britain (in fact, his first memory
of wine "is on the altar, and it was always a game
to see how much of the sacrament you would gulp down when
it was your turn to taste our lord's hemoglobin") his
wit isn't really Brit-dry. It's a bit slapstick, a tad crazy
and at the same time really subtle (you must catch the obvious
and/or illusive cultural allusions and philosophical ruminations).
It's like this: You can see the author sweat big buckets
at lunch with Robert Mondavi or at his Château Lafite
stint... you really empathize with his layman / everyman
(or woman's) approach to experiencing wine—the clownish
antithesis of the aloof wine expert. And why? Because in
every wine snob, there's a tiny seed of doubt and it says:
"How do I know that my own tastes are authentic? Here
the issue becomes a philosophical one. Taste defines one's
personality. Acquiring taste" Osborne writes, "is
a talent for living life." The other thing that works
in his favor is this: You can read between the lines. He
may play dumb but this enfant (terrible)
has been around the block (from the "pastoral"
romance of Tuscany to Paris via New York and everywhere
in between).
He
does goes on a mission, roaming multimillion-dollar wineries
and small garages, humble vineyards and Renaissance palaces
in a quest for well, what exactly? The answer to the question
what defines taste? It doesn't matter. This book is carried
on Osborne's acerbic humor alone. He sees the absurd in
the mundane. And it's a hilarious thing to behold. Winespeak
or not, this book will cause you to hyperventilate but for
a different reason.
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